Antalya

Antalya's historic core is a beautifully preserved maze of narrow cobbled lanes spilling downhill toward the harbour, enclosed by the remains of the old city walls. Behind carved wooden doors, restored Ottoman mansions now house boutique hotels, courtyard cafes, carpet and craft shops, and small galleries, with bougainvillea spilling over every corner and the odd Roman column or Seljuk minaret rising between the rooftops. It is a place to wander without a map: get pleasantly lost, follow the slope down to the marina, pause for tea or a fresh orange juice, and let the lanes lead you past hidden ruins and viewpoints over the bay. Landmarks to aim for include the fluted Yivli Minare, the old clock tower at the gate, and the sea-view terraces at the bottom. Come in the cool of morning or the golden light of evening rather than the fierce midday heat, and wear shoes that handle worn cobbles.

The grandest surviving entrance into Kaleiçi is this triple-arched marble gateway, raised in 130 AD to honour the Roman emperor Hadrian's visit to the city. Remarkably intact after nearly nineteen centuries, its three matching arches rest on columns of pale marble and granite, once topped by statues, and the original Roman paving beneath still shows the deep ruts worn by ancient cart wheels. For much of the Ottoman period it was walled up and hidden within the fortifications, which is partly why it survived so well. Today it forms a striking threshold between the modern shopping street of Atatürk Caddesi and the old town beyond, framed by tall palms and a small park. It takes only a few minutes to admire, so fold it into a Kaleiçi walk rather than making a special trip. The light is softest, and the crowds thinnest, in the late afternoon.

Antalya actually has two sets of Düden falls, and they are quite different. The Upper Düden, a few kilometres inland in a shady park, tumbles over a rock lip into a gorge, with a path that leads behind the curtain of water into a cool cave, a refreshing escape on a hot day and the more family-friendly of the pair. The Lower Düden is the dramatic one: here the river reaches the coast east of the centre and plunges straight off a cliff into the Mediterranean in a wide, roaring cascade. You can view it from clifftop terraces in the surrounding park, but the finest angle is from the sea, so many people catch it on a short harbour boat trip that pauses offshore for photographs. Visit the upper falls in the morning before the tour buses, pair the lower falls with an afternoon boat trip, and expect fine spray near both.

The city's western beach is a long stretch of clean grey pebbles and clear, deep-blue water set directly beneath the Beydağları mountains, whose peaks stay snow-dusted well into spring, an unusually dramatic backdrop for a swim. Blue Flag certified and walkable from the centre, it is backed by a well-kept promenade of parks, cafes, beach clubs and the Antalya Aquarium, so a beach day here comes with plenty of shade and amenities. The pebbles keep the water beautifully clear but also mean you will want swim shoes, especially for children, and a mat under your towel. Sections range from free public stretches to organised beach clubs renting loungers and umbrellas. The swimming season runs roughly June to September, though the sea stays warm into October. Come earlier in the day for calmer water and easier parking, and stay for sunset, when the mountains behind turn pink over the bay.

East of the city, Lara is Antalya's sandy counterpoint to pebbly Konyaaltı, a long ribbon of golden sand that has become the address for the region's biggest luxury and family resorts, several built as eye-catching themed hotels. The sand is soft underfoot and the water shelves gently, which, along with the calm shallows, makes it especially good for families with young children. Much of the beachfront is divided among the resorts, whose guests get sunbeds and full service, but there is also a generous public Lara Beach Park with free and paid areas, showers and cafes for those not staying on the strip. It sits close to the airport and the Kundu hotel zone, so it is where many package and all-inclusive stays are based. Expect a livelier, more built-up feel than Konyaaltı. Swim from June to September, arrive early for public parking and shade, and keep an eye on children in the water.

Tucked at the foot of Kaleiçi's cliffs, Antalya's old Roman harbour is one of the prettiest corners of the city, a horseshoe of stone quays now filled with yachts, gulets and excursion boats rather than the trading ships of two thousand years ago. Restored from near-dereliction, it is the departure point for the coastal boat trips that cruise past the Lower Düden falls and along the cliffs, from one-hour spins to full-day outings with swimming stops. Ringed by seafood restaurants, cafes and bars climbing the terraced slope, it comes alive in the late afternoon and evening, when the light softens on the water and the old-town lanes above empty toward the quay for dinner. Walk down through Kaleiçi to reach it, compare a few boat operators along the quay before choosing, and linger for a sunset meal with the fortress walls glowing overhead. Steep steps connect it back up to the old town.