The grandest surviving entrance into Kaleiçi is this triple-arched marble gateway, raised in 130 AD to honour the Roman emperor Hadrian's visit to the city. Remarkably intact after nearly nineteen centuries, its three matching arches rest on columns of pale marble and granite, once topped by statues, and the original Roman paving beneath still shows the deep ruts worn by ancient cart wheels. For much of the Ottoman period it was walled up and hidden within the fortifications, which is partly why it survived so well. Today it forms a striking threshold between the modern shopping street of Atatürk Caddesi and the old town beyond, framed by tall palms and a small park. It takes only a few minutes to admire, so fold it into a Kaleiçi walk rather than making a special trip. The light is softest, and the crowds thinnest, in the late afternoon.
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