For almost four centuries this was the nerve centre of the Ottoman Empire, a walled city of courtyards, pavilions and gardens on the point where the Bosphorus meets the Golden Horn. It is less a single palace than a sequence of them, so plan a good half-day. The Imperial Treasury dazzles with the emerald-studded Topkapi dagger and the 86-carat Spoonmaker's Diamond, while the Chamber of Sacred Relics holds objects associated with the Prophet Muhammad, viewed with appropriate reverence. The separately ticketed Harem, a warren of tiled private apartments where the sultan's family and household lived, is worth every extra lira. Don't rush the fourth courtyard, whose terraces and tulip gardens offer some of the finest Bosphorus views in the city. Arrive right at opening to stay ahead of the tour groups, and note that the palace closes on Tuesdays. Comfortable shoes matter here more than almost anywhere else.
Plan your trip with Seen