Dilek Peninsula National Park

For a complete contrast to the resort beaches, drive west from Kusadasi to the Dilek Peninsula National Park, a mountainous finger of protected coastline pointing out toward the Greek island of Samos. The peninsula is covered in pine and maquis forest, home to wild boar, jackals and rich birdlife, and its great appeal is a string of clean, undeveloped pebble-and-sand beaches, Icmeler, Aydinlik, Kavakliburun and Karasu, set in coves of astonishingly clear turquoise water with the mountains rising straight behind. A single road runs along the coast linking them, with a modest park entry fee, and quieter stretches reward anyone willing to walk a little from the car parks. Hikers can also tackle marked trails and a canyon route into the hills. Just outside the park entrance, near the village of Guzelcamli, the small Zeus Cave hides a cold, clear pool that legend ties to the god himself. It makes a superb full-day escape into nature, so bring a picnic, water and swimming things.