Trading since the fourteenth century, Khan el-Khalili is less a market than a medieval quarter you get pleasantly lost in. The main lanes near Al-Hussein are the touristy face, souvenir lamps, alabaster, papyrus and cartouches, but push into the side alleys and you reach the real working souk: goldsmiths hammering in the gold district, coppersmiths, the spice and perfume-oil sellers with their walls of glass bottles, and tiny workshops making the same wares they have for generations. At its heart sits El-Fishawy, a gloriously cluttered coffee house of tarnished mirrors and brass that has poured mint tea and lit shisha for over two centuries; grab a seat, order a karkade, and watch Cairo drift by. Come late afternoon into the evening when the lanes are lit and buzzing. Bargaining is expected and part of the fun, so start low, stay friendly, and never look too keen.
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