Thong Nai Pan is a pair of golden bays on the quiet northeast coast, and for many the prettiest corner of the island. Thong Nai Pan Yai, the larger southern bay, has a small village, easy-going resorts and a sociable but never rowdy beach. Thong Nai Pan Noi, just over the headland, is smaller, smarter and home to some of Phangan's most upmarket retreats. Both offer soft sand, clear swimming water and calm, family-friendly conditions for much of the year. The pay-off for the beauty is the journey: the road in from the west was notoriously steep and potholed for years, and though it has improved, many visitors still prefer a taxi-boat or songthaew over a scooter. Once there you can happily do nothing, or hike to nearby viewpoints and waterfalls. It rewards travellers who want a serene base away from Haad Rin's noise, with enough dining to keep you fed without leaving.
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