Perched above the modern city, Ankara's citadel is a palimpsest of walls raised and rebuilt by Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks, and Ottomans, some stretches patched with recycled marble columns and even inscribed antique blocks. You can climb onto the inner ramparts for a sweeping panorama across Ankara's sea of apartment blocks to the hills beyond, especially fine at sunset. Within and just below the walls lies Kaleiçi, the old town, where restored timber-and-stone Ottoman houses now hold boutique cafes, carpet and antique dealers, and shops selling spices, dried fruit, and local wine. The lanes are steep and cobbled, so wear proper shoes. It is an atmospheric contrast to the planned avenues downhill and an easy pairing with the archaeology museum at its gate. Vendors here sell Ankara's prized mohair goods and freshly roasted nuts, good for browsing even if you buy nothing.
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