


The Kordon is the soul of modern Izmir, a broad palm-lined promenade curving along the bay where the whole city seems to come out to walk, cycle, picnic on the grass and watch the sun drop into the Aegean. Ferries glide across the water, cafes and seafood meyhanes line the front, and the pace is unmistakably Mediterranean. At its southern end lies Konak Square, Izmir's civic heart, dominated by the ornate Clock Tower built in 1901, an elegant Ottoman landmark that has become the symbol of the city, with the little tiled Konak Mosque beside it. From here you can dive straight into Kemeralti, the sprawling historic bazaar of covered lanes, hidden courtyards, tea houses and workshops that has been the city's marketplace for centuries. Restored Konak Pier, a waterfront gallery attributed to Gustave Eiffel's engineering firm, adds shopping and dining. Riding a ferry across the bay at dusk is one of the simplest pleasures in Izmir.
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