Built in 1251 by the Seljuk statesman Celaleddin Karatay, this former theological college now shelters one of Turkey's great collections of Seljuk ceramics and tilework. The showpiece is the building itself: step inside and look up to a dome sheathed in interlocking turquoise and cobalt star tiles that spiral toward a central oculus, an abstract map of the heavens above a pool that once caught the sky's reflection. The transition zone below, with its triangular squinches and woven Kufic inscriptions, is a masterclass in Seljuk geometry. Display cases hold fragments of luster and minai ware, star-and-cross wall tiles, and pieces recovered from the nearby Kubadabad Palace on Lake Beyşehir. It is compact and can be seen fairly quickly, but the ceiling alone justifies the visit. Study the carved stone portal outside, all muqarnas and knotwork, before you step in.
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