Set against a sheer amber cliff on the West Bank, Hatshepsut's mortuary temple is the most architecturally striking monument in Luxor, three broad colonnaded terraces linked by long ramps that look almost modern in their clean symmetry. Hatshepsut was one of very few women to rule Egypt as pharaoh, and she built on a scale to match any king; after her death her successor tried to erase her, chiselling out her image, which you can still see hacked from the walls. Climb the terraces to find the delicate reliefs: the famous trading expedition to the land of Punt with its laden ships and exotic goods, scenes of her divine birth, and the little Hathor chapel with cow-headed columns. The setting, pale colonnades glowing against red rock, is unforgettable, especially in early light. There is almost no shade, and the stone amphitheatre traps heat fiercely, so come at opening and carry water.
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